Friday, March 19, 2010

Tokina MF 300mm f/2.8 AT-X SD - Performance


I took the new (used) Tokina 300mm f/2.8 out for a spin the past couple days during my daily travels. I didn't get the chance to make it to the zoo, like I wanted but summer's on its way. What I do have is a quick test I did on a tripod overlooking the local lake. The sun provided a beautifully rigorous set of variables for any lens to overcome. High contrast, strong highlights, flare, just about everything.

Let's Get To It

I have to say, although I don't have a lot of experience with other f/2.8 telephotos, I am rather impressed. You can make some beautiful images with this lens. Obviously this lens has its shortcomings. But for the money, I am very happy.

Below is the test key image. Being a bright sunny day, this high contrast situation will definitely showcase the lenses ability, or inability to handle CA. The lens runs through f/32 and runs 1/2 stop clicks until f/22 where it then is one click to f/32. Somehow I goofed and missed f/22 in this test. Not only that, despite having a tripod, I managed to get some camera shake at f/32. Diffraction was already degrading the image so much I hardly feel it necessary to worry about this. I don't know anyone buying an f/2.8 lens to shoot at f/32. So f/22 and f/32 are absent from these examples. Image info is posted lightly in the bottom left corner of each image as well.


f/2.8
f/4
f/5.6
f/8
f/11
f/16

Note:

First off, allow me to clarify something. A comment on a previous post brought to my attention, something I may have forgotten to communicate in these lens tests regarding performance. The comment was just that I was focusing on wide-open results heavily, despite the lens being able to deliver fantastic results at later apertures. To that, I just want to say this.

Let us assume as with almost all optics I have come across, optimal optical performance will be at some middle aperture of the lens. Typically lenses are at their best at f/5.6 or f/8. However, often times the difference between very expensive optics and cheap-o's comes down to how that particular lens can handle "the extremes". How does it handle in highly specular situations, how does it perform wide open, how do the peripheral factors of the lens such as bokeh look? It is those aspects of lens that I invariably explore. For it is through such scrutiny the great lenses can be found still performing.

Analysis

So with that said, is this lens worth the f/2.8? Is it worth buying the f/2.8 to use at f/4 since buying an f/4 may mean you must use it at f/5.6 for usable results. I think the lens performs quite satisfactorily at f/2.8. It's a bit soft but retains a great amount of detail and after some post, can produce some very nice images. Edge sharpness looks pretty good. Near the corners the lens softens for sure. Definitely has an issue with CA, but again, many of the Tokina lenses I have used do have this issue. Perhaps a little post could improve this. At f/4 I would say the lens improves greatly, certainly in regards to the CA. There is some light fall-off at the early apertures but nothing abnormal. I tend to like a bit of vignetting anyway. By f/5.6 I think this lens looks great! After f/8 diffraction begins taking the image back down. Even at f/11 it is very evident.

Contrast is great. I find Tokina lenses to typically be a little more contrasty than their Nikon contemporaries. The 300mm MF is no exception. Contrast is an interesting issue relative ot the digital age. Primarily because I prefer to control this in post. I typically shoot RAW and worry about contrast when I get to the computer. Granted, the less post, the better. And a lens does need a certain quality of contrast. I am only saying, I don't feel it is "quite" as imperative as it was with film, though definitely still important.

All in all, a great lens for about half to a third the price of the Nikon. If you are looking for a lens for some serious freelance work that need to be technically very adept, I would recommend just buying the Nikon. According to those who use them, they're excellent. You (or your client) however, know your own needs better than anyone. For what I am doing right now, this lens will be just fine!

Just for the heck of it I made a few other images with this lens at ISO 3200 on the D700. Love that camera.

1/200 @ f/2.8 ISO 3200


1/60 @ f/2.8 ISO 3200


1/5000 @ f4 ISO 200

1/1000 @ f/5.6 ISO 200

Wrap-Up

I will continue to shoot with this lens and see what I can get out of it. I also just recently used a teleconverter, the Nikon TC-14A, just to see what happened and I actually got some very nice results. Likewise, I am happy with results from a used AF Tamron 1.4x TC I found for $30 at a local camera shop. It seems this lens is relatively conducive to TCs.

Tokina MF 300mm f/2.8 with Tamron AF 1.4x TC


Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Tokina MF 300mm f/2.8 AT-X SD - An Elusive Manual Focus Telephoto





It wasn't until recently, that I ever considered picking up a long telephoto, faster than f/4-5.6. Anyone reading this most likely knows, a lens' aperture and price tag have a direct relationship; As the aperture gets larger, so does the cost. I don't have a whole lot of money, so as usual, I of course was sure to explore all of my options. The digital age has swept photography by storm and left in it's wake garages full of lenses composed of older optical designs, dated coatings, complete lack of electronics, and pure, primal manual focus. But just how inferior or dated are these lenses?

I am looking to get more into shooting sports. I would also love to do some birding and wildlife photography. Currently, my longest lens is the Nikon AF 80-200mm f/2.8D, a stellar piece of glass, but not nearly long enough for the aforementioned purposes. There are always teleconverters, however, this solution immediately cuts into the speed of the lens defeating the whole purpose of a fast telephoto. I want speed!

Most likely due to the cost of R&D and production, a vast catalog of alternatives to the major manufacturer's long prime lenses does not seem to exist. In fact, in all of my searching for a means to attain a relatively inexpensive taste of the fast tele market led me to only a handful of choices: the Tamron 300mm f/2.8 (of which a few variations exist: 107B, 60B, 360B, 90E), the Tokina MF 300mm f/2.8, and as far as the 2.8s are concerned, that's about it. Now allow me to place a disclaimer here: I am speaking from the standpoint of a Nikon user. Also I am keeping in mind commonality. These models will pop up on the used market fairly regularly whereas I am sure other fast tele's exist but remain fairly hard to find.

Having a limited choice can be both a good and bad thing. On one hand, the decision is certainly more sane than attempting to choose a normal zoom, which has almost a hundred various designs/focal lengths/manufacturers to choose from (24-70, 24-50, 28-70, 35-70, and so forth). On the other hand, having only a couple alternatives also begs the question, "Is there a reason only a couple competitors exist? Should I even bother attempting to go with Third-party? Just how great are those Nikkor (premium) telephotos?"

Situation and Decision Process

Being newer to the telephoto market is no accident. The first time I saw the prices of those Sports Illustrated lenses, I was more than shocked! The low end of those lenses are two or three times more than my first car! When I mean fast, I mean 200 f/2, 300 f/2.8, 400 f/2.8, 500 f/4, 600 f/4. etc. You can pick up a 70-300mm f/4-5.6 for around $200. These lenses however, are not fast enough to fully separate the subject from the background (in similar settings) like those beautiful, giant rocket launchers the SI guys schlep around. They certainly don't carry 'em just to build muscle. It is because of that crisp separation of subject from background that I have decided I am completely willing to lug around one of these beasts.

If you too find yourself ready to make the jump to a faster telephoto but have a budget in mind, consider these few things:


The first decision: Zoom or Prime. While the zoom will afford you variability in your composition, a fast zoom lens will cost a fortune. Many people's first lens is a zoom. The basic kit lenses for cameras are often 18-55mm, 55-200mm, or even 70-300mm. These lenses however, are quite "slow" often only opening up to f/5.6 at the longer end. You might be surprised at the difference in a couple apertures. The highly rated Nikon 200-400 f/4 provides an amazing focal length with a great constant aperture; but at over $5k it ought to! A prime on the other hand, can deliver the speed but inversely restricts your flexibility in terms of composition (Obviously, you will have to physically move closer or further to change your composition significantly). In the end, the speed and resulting DoF combined with a lack of unlimited funding led me to a prime.

AF or MF. This is a tough one. Sports/wildlife subject matter is constantly moving. The newest auto-focus lenses make photographing moving objects much easier so that more effort can be devoted to composition. Even though I would love to go all out, I just cannot afford these long/fast telephotos right now. Anything f/2.8 or f/4 in the realm of 300mm or more with AF is easily $3000. I even thought about getting a shorter focal length and using teleconverters*. When you shoot this stuff for a living, no problem. When you're a broke freelancer, it's somewhat of a different story. If you have the money, the AF is a no brainer. For those without that financial background, here is where the Nikon system shines! Manual focus lenses can be had for fractions of the price of newer AF lenses. The way I see it, the pros years back shot manual focus everything and did just fine. If nothing else, it will make me better and more adept for the time being. (Or at least this is what I tell myself to cope...)

*For the Nikon shooter, I think it important to note a couple things I ran into with teleconverters. I thought about using either the Nikon 80-200mm AF-D, 80-200mm AF-S or 70-200mm AF-S VR with a 1.4x or 1.7x TC. Here's the thing. For optimal image quality most photographers use the Nikon brand TCs, the TC-14E, TC-17E, and TC-20E. These TCs ONLY work with the AF-S lenses. They actually have tabs that will not allow other lenses to be mounted including AF lenses. I have heard they can be milled but I don't know about paying over 2 grand to "rig" something. So scratch the 80-200 AF-D (the one I conveniently already own). Not only that, those AF-S lenses (as of March 2010) are running about $1000-2600 depending on which lens you're looking at. And those TCs run $300+ by themselves. You can't even use them on the $1500+ Nikon 300mm AF lens. As I said, you could choose to use any one of these lenses and just buy a Third-party TC but from all I have seen it is relatively hit or miss and if you're spending the money, you may as well know what you're getting for it. All told, I find the TC solution a possible solution, but not the best for the miserly photographer who does not already own a tele-zoom.

Nikon or Third-Party. As per usual, the Nikons tend to run a good amount more than the third party lenses depending on the model, but from all reviews perform extremely well. This is the big decision for me. Again, the third-party lenses aren't cheap, just less expensive. Typically, for just about the same price of a nice condition third-party, a photographer could purchase a beat-up Nikkor. This was an important decision to me since I appreciate owning and using well cared for gear. This can also be important in terms of quality of your sample. Not only can there be performance variation among different samples of the same lens, but consider such a precision instrument being treated like garbage for a few years. Why would you expect it to perform flawlessly? Plus, a clean, cared for lens makes resale a whole lot easier if things don't work out. I, however, managed to get an excellent price on a good condition Tokina 300mm f/2.8 SD manual focus lens. So despite the Nikon going for $800 in "bargain" condition, I picked up an alternative for barely over half the price.

+

Tokina MF 300mm f/2.8 AT-X




I have found very little factual information on this lens. Just about every time I search it, Google, Flickr, or whatever search I am using pulls up info or examples from the Tokina AF 300mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro. This is much newer lens design incorporating more advanced technology. It's considerably larger price tag also causes me to believe it is perhaps a much better optical design. In regards to what I have found on this older manual focus 300mm, people have said some great things about it. But again, lots of talk, little evidence. I originally had very little tech info on the post but after further searching I found Photodo.com and a Japanese site (which it seems got their info from photodo). I had actually initially posted a few items based on tests I did, such as minimum focusing distance and they corresponded with the Photodo numbers almost exactly, so that's great! Photodo says min focus distance is 2.4m. I kept getting 2.3 m. I also think they weighed the lens without the metal hood, which adds a pound or two. No real big differences!

Specifications


Aperture Range: f/2.8-32
Angle of Acceptance: 9°
Optical Construction: 9 elements, 7 groups
Maximum Reproduction Ratio: 1:7 at 2.3 m
Minimum Focusing Distance (From Film Plane): 2.3 m (7.65 ft.)
Length with Hood: 350.5 mm (1.15 ft.)
Length without Hood: 213.4 mm (0.7 ft.)
Maximum Barrel Diameter: 117 mm (0.38 ft.)
Accessory Size: 112 mm and 35.5mm (filter tray)
Weight with Hood: 2.7 kg (6 lbs.)

Physical/Cosmetic

This lens is a tank. The particular lens I bought, is somewhat of a "beater" (the hood and larger portions of the barrel have been retouch a bit in the images for the sake of this site). The glass looks very nice with a bit of dust. No scratches, fungus, haze, oil on blades, etc. so optically quite usable! But as far as cosmetics this thing got beat up. The barrel shows mars in the metal, a slightly bent hood, which fortunately is all metal (I have actually read this lens in particular had issues with the hood tightening screw breaking and thus the hood becoming flimsy, which has happened to my sample. A small piece of adhesive felt fixed this for me). Despite the battle scars, it's a rock. The hull of this lens just thuds when you flick it, no reverberation of any kind. You may as well be flicking a solid brick of steel. This MF version sports a large Tokina brand 112mm protective filter that came with the lens (also quite beat up on my lens but still in great optical shape). You have a rear 43mm drop-in filter which is the only plastic in the whole lens. I don't particularly like how flimsy it is compared to the rest of the lens, but I doubt I will ever mess with it to be honest.
Operationally, the Tokina MF 300mm is very basic. No quick focus settings or limiter switches. Just a large, extremely accessible, silky smooth focusing ring dressed in the Tokina AT-X line's signature knurled-like grip. Such a fluid focusing ring is key to improving the shooter's ability to focus quickly and accurately.
Performance



If you have any info or links on this lens, message me or e-mail. I would love to get some more together for others who may be looking!

Link/Resources

Japanese Blurb on this MF Tokina 300 through Google Translate -
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http://homepage3.nifty.com/3rdpartylens-om/&langpair=ja|en&hl=ja&c2coff=1&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools

Photodo.com's review with some MTF data -
http://www.photodo.com/product_487.html

Tokina AF 17mm AT-X f/3.5 Ultrawide



While looking for an auto-focus ultrawide some time back, I remember coming across this Tokina AF 17mm AT-X f/3.5. It is indeed the precursor to the AT-X Pro model I previously reviewed here on this blog (Consequently, I will refer to it as version 1 from time to time). Well I just got a crack at one and thought, since often lenses such as this have very little information out there, I would give it a quick whirl for my own curiosity's sake.

First impression, solid built little lens. Although it isn't very much smaller than the AT-X Pro model, for some reason it "seems" considerably smaller. Even despite the fact that the hood is built-in (non-removable).

Specifications



Focal range: 17 mm
Filter diameter: 72mm
Max. aperture: 3.5
Min. aperture: 22
Elements/Groups: 11/9
Angle of view: 103°
Aperture blades: 7
Minimum focus distance: 250mm
Hood: Fixed metal
Weight: 400 g

Performance


Honestly, I haven't spent a whole lot of time with this lens. I don't believe the performance will be all that different from the Pro version. Only optical difference it seems is the addition of Super Low Dispersion glass in the Pro. The hood of the newer Pro also appears to have a bit more coverage than the metal build-in of the first AF version.


Below is a quick comparison between the two versions at the extreme. Wide open and far edge.


f/3.5 @ ISO 200 on D700
I really only saw a difference worth mentioning here. It seems the Pro version is a hair sharper wide open. CA is apparent in both and for all intents and purposes appears to be the same. The difference in color rendering between these lenses is so minute, it would hardly show up through the various processing of a web uploaded image, but I will just say, the Pro version puts out a slightly more saturated image. I like the look and feel of the Pro's images just a hair better than the older version 1.

Visually the coatings of the version 1 lens appear more saturated (on the right) but as stated above, I would believe the coatings of the Pro are more advanced based on the output.

Physical/Cosmetics


The version 1 Tokina AF 17mm lens feels solid. It appears to be an all metal construction, including the hood. The hood is non-removable but that shouldn't be an issue since anyone shooting an ultrawide should have the hood on at all times. The only reason one might want to take the hood off is during storage. Still, the hood isn't all that obtrusive. There is no AF/MF switch or clutch mechanism as on the Pro. Seeing as how the user must engage the MF clutch as well as switch the camera to MF using the Pro version, this isn't any disadvantage. The focus ring and autofocus is a hint noisier than that of the Pro but nothing to worry about. This version 1 also has one of those clear plastic windows to view the distance scale printed on the inner barrel.


One more thing. The AF 17mm AT-X originally came with that signature dark red rectangular leather hard case whereas the newer Pro came with an ugly grey leather sack/thing. Both models have since been discontinued.

Wrap-Up


Overall, this first version is a reliable, robust ultrawide lens. If given the choice between this version and the Pro, go for the Pro. Slightly sharper performance, SD (Super-low Dispersion) glass, and (I'm gonna state an opinion here...) a more aesthetic build. I'm a huge fan of the Tokina "armalite" finish. Other than that, the Tokina AF 17mm f/3.5 is an excellent little ultrawide and is capable of making beautiful images, especially on newer full-frame DSLRs.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Early Spring Cleaning - LENSES FOR SALE!

***ALL SOLD*** Thanks!

So I have recently decided to switch gears momentarily while I attempt to get things in order for the future. The job market is rough and the photography industry is even rougher. I love analyzing these older lenses and shall continue to do so as I come across them. However, I have begun to acquire somewhat of an "entourage". The fact of the matter is, I just don't need this many lenses! I couldn't possibly use them all and I really do need some other gear. So, although I consider it "a great service to photography" to keep these wonderful pieces of glass in pristine condition, and of course using them for good measure, I have decided to share, so to speak! I have links to my eBay listings below. For SALE:

- Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 1:1 Nikon AI

- Vivitar Series 1 135mm f/2.3 (love this one but just can't keep it right now) Nikon AI

- Spiratone 18mm f/3.5 (the far superior tokina 17mm makes this one redundant) Nikon AI

- Nikon Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 w/ PN-11

- Quantaray 2x AF TC for Nikon

- Mamiya 65mm f/3.5 for TLR (C33, C220, C330)


Also will possibly be selling the Vivitar Series 1 105mm f/2.5 for Nikon AI and the Tokina 17mm AT-X Pro f/3.5 for Nikon. Still deciding on these!

Friday, March 5, 2010

Starry Night

Camera: Nikon D700
Lens: Tokina AT-X Pro 17mm f/3.5
Aperture: f/5
Shutter Speed: unknown
ISO: 3200

This evening, the stars were out in force, even despite all the suburban light pollution. I couldn't resist, and fortunately, I don't have to! I can even spot Orion in there. Ok so I threw in a faint outline there... The moon was great too but by the time I had the camera out it had obviously long since moved from its beautiful perch on the horizon.

I tried to leave the image large so you could check out the corners but it appears blogger has somewhat of a size cap. You can still see a bit. I have been very happy with Tokina's little 17mm. Emphasis on the "little", it truly is too convenient!

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Vivitar Series 1 135mm f/2.3

Prime Lenses



1975 witnessed the introduction of the Vivitar Series 1 line. These new lenses boasted specs unheard of at that time from a "third-party" manufacturer. Not only did they perform admirably, but they looked good doing it. Looking back, over the lenses produced throughout that era, I personally find the Series 1 lenses to be of more interest than any other lenses. In fact, it was through the Vivitar 90mm (Komine-made) and Series 1 90mm confusion I first began this blog and have become increasingly obsessed ever since! They represent, for me, perhaps one of manufacturing's greatest examples of a perfect synthesis between "form and function".

I love prime lenses. With the convenience of zooms, primes are a thing of the past. Everything's a zoom now. Older photographers once upon a time, memorized the field of view that a particular focal length gave them. They anticipated more, shot many cameras at once, and the task of shooting the multiple focal lengths needed throughout the duration of an event was exhausting. Zooms have really changed all that. Zoom lenses, were inevitable.

While the zoom market has expanded exponentially due to increased technological capabilities in design and manufacturing, those are merely variables in a much larger equation. Money is the crux. Money always drives technology either directly or indirectly. In this case, money is flowing from the professionals and consumers. The pros want quicker/more efficient equipment for greater output and in turn larger profits. Consumers love convenience. A zoom is just that. Forget time consuming lens swaps and larger bags with x number of focal lengths in them. With the zoom, people could be shooting a telephoto image of the end of the pier one second, and with the flick of their wrist, be snapping a close-up of a flower, the next. Pros could be grabbing hundreds of shots without the hassle of swapping lenses or lots of cameras dangling from their necks, as well as easy in camera cropping (saving valuable time from the post editing process). In the beginning, zooms afforded convenience but still often suffered optical issues due to the complexity of attempting to do what primes often could not do perfectly, over a range of coal lengths. That too is changing. Yes, the zoom was an inevitable evolution of fixed focal length lenses.

To be clear, I don't hate zooms. They are not "evil". I don't think they are directly of any cause the deterioration of photography. No, it is more that as well as being an incredibly versatile tool, they can become a crutch. It's very much like auto-focus and metering to me. People would come into the store telling me a camera didn't take good pictures. After looking at their attempts, it really was just that the camera was not well equipped with a precise light meter. Or the conditions under which they wanted images was far more demanding than any digital sensor could handle. The point being, these people had no idea what was even happening in the photographic process.

A prime, to me, represents a definitive decision. I chose this lens, for this purpose, period. 135mm, portraits. 20mm, landscape. Same issue as shooting specific glass - zeiss, nikkor, L, etc. We consciously make these decisions defining our variables in our creative process; we choose specifics to articulate - to make images.

Primes also hold a nostalgic value to me. Like manual focus, and massive 4x5 cameras, and glass plates, they represent just a piece of that once laborious effort between mind and equipment that befell photographers attempting to create; trying to freeze a moment, or create something beautiful. They are from an era, where imagery was much more highly valued I believe.

Vivitar Series 1 135mm f/2.3


I cannot recall where I first saw the Vivitar Series 1 135mm lens, but I was immediately enamored. What first caught my eye, was the fast f/2.3 aperture for a 135mm lens. The second thing was obviously the similar look to the Series 1 90mm (my favorite lens of all!). I couldn't find a whole lot about it, nor many images over which I could salivate. I also found, based on the few images I did see, the conical shape and physical movement of the lens a bit of a mystery. Every other lens I had seen was cylindrical. When lenses zoom, a smaller cylinder protrudes further from the larger within which it is housed. This 135mm however, appeared conical, from which a smaller cone-shaped tube emerged. Strange! So here it is:

Specifications


Focal length: 135mm
Filter thread: 72mm
Min. Aperture: f/2.3
Max. Aperture: f/22
Angular field of view (diagonal): 18º
Elements/groups: 6/6
Min. focusing distance: 30.2" (76.7 cm)
Weight: 1.49 lbs. (675 g)
Maximum reproduction ratio: 1:4.5
Mounts: Nikon, Canon, Konica, Minolta, Olympus OM, Pentax, Vivitar, and other Universal thread-mounts
Lens hood: Built-in

*Komine actually manufactured this lens. I have seen 1 or 2 unconfirmed rumors of a possible Tokina-made Series 1 135mm f/2.3 but I have never personally run across the evidence of this.

Lens Diagram



Physical Attributes/Aesthetics


As I stated before, this lens has a very unique shape looks a bit strange when cranked all the way out for the closest focusing. It is identical (but smaller) to the 200mm f/3.0. Which is next on my hit list. The 135mm is somewhat a short, rotund little fella. The sample I picked up has been AI modified from an older non-AI version so the finish and metal has been a little chewed up at the base. I have seen a few on eBay with the appropriate manufacturers AI mount. These "newer" versions also appear to have the blue "VMC" lettering on the front ring indicating Vivitar multicoating. The version I have does not have this and I am led to believe, it is not multicoated. Every forum I have read about the lens raves about, as with most of the early Series 1 lenses, the ultra-smooth focusing. It really is "like buttah".

The lens weighs a full pound and a half. It's a solid chunk of glass and metal. Again, same precision carved barrel with a small ovular window cut right out of the barrel to view the markings engraved into the inner barrel denoting aperture, as well as a rectangular window for the focusing scale. The built-in hood appears to provide a little protection against flare, but I haven't had it out long enough to experience the limitations. I am a bit hesitant to believe it provides the maximum protection for this longer focal length given how short it is.


One of my favorite attributes of this lens is the massive, spherical element bulging out of the lens barrel. This thing is awesome. The coating has an amber tint to it, while the lens doesn't appear to any discoloration (as is common with older series 1 lenses. they sometimes yellow a bit). It takes a just a little under a full rotation (maybe 9/10 of a turn) to go through the full focus of the lens.

Versions


After owning a couple of these 135mms, I have noticed it appears Vivitar released two versions of this lens. The first, being the lens first pictured here in this post. In the second version, Vivitar multi-coated the lens, giving it the "VMC" denotation and you can typically discern the VMC coating right off the bat. I haven't owned both versions simultaneously and thus have never done a side-by-side. Through my experience with the 90mm macro and the 90-180mm macro zoom, which are both VMC, I can say the contrast with these lenses is excellent.


Like all original Series 1 lenses, the 135mm f/2.3 is a sight to behold!

Samples


The girl and I went out to dinner this evening, but not before I snapped some shots of her coordinating with her friends from out-of-town. I tweaked the contrast/color for the web and sharpened only so the web-softened image was back to what the original file looked like. This shot was taken wide-open (f/2.3) at ISO 200, with the D700.


Below is a crop, I believe around 200% blown up a bit, to see the sharpness this lens can produce wide open even. I am actually pleasantly surprised! I will say, though less prominent in this shot, the series 1 135mm suffers some CA, at times to a rather severe degree (see example 2).


OK, I know, worst composition ever. Does this guy even know how to make a photo? I was relaxing in the comfy living room chair, this happened to be across from me! Fairly severe circumstances in terms of lighting, but gives you an idea of how much CA this lens can have. Give me a day or two and I will get some better images up. I did make a quick shot at infinity wide open of some trees and all the branches were blue...


Despite these flaws, I would say this lens definitely has a place in my bag, as well as my heart. I have a tough time separating design and performance. Sometimes, I have no trouble making excuses for an under performing optic if the design aesthetic is impressive enough. So long as I am honest about the optical performance right!? I need some more time and variation in subject matter to make an accurate judgement. At this point, I do believe the lens can produce some very nice images. I would say, on this one, there are definitely sharper, faster options out there with better controlled CA. Picking up this lens is more about the aesthetic of shooting with a 30 year old piece of glass and achieving a specific air about the images made. (in other words - not like the S1 90mm f/2.5 in the macro realm, which can still match and exceed some of the newest macros)

AI Modification

Upon request, here is an image of the AI modded sample I used. I also threw in one with a turquoise highlight if it helps to discern where the mount has been milled. I did not perform this modification, I picked up the lens like this. Though it looks like a fairly beat-up sample, everything seemed to work as it should. I have now owned three of these on different occasions. I can't stop picking them up when I find them, just still searching for that mint copy!


Hopefully one of the images helps you Theofanis!

Vintage Advertisements


Below is another advertisement scanned in by Nesster and posted on flickr.

The two ads below were posted on the forums at fredmiranda.com (link is below as well) and actually accompanied by the ad above independently scanned by someone else.


Links/Resources


Talk of this lens as well as old ads posted here:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/710405/0

Some praise for this lens on the photo.net forums:
http://photo.net/filters-bags-tripods-accessories-forum/00Ga7G

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

105mm Kiron Iterations



The Kiron 105mm is, in my experience, one of the most talked about third party macro lenses when it comes to manual focus lenses. It excels in performance, goes to 1:1 without the need for clumsy extensions or tubes, and most of all, is quite accessible. The lens can be had for a relatively modest price on auction sites (most of the time). I have heard many stories of them popping up at local shops and garage sales for a couple dollars. The best news is: There are plenty of these lenses to go around! Due to the popularity of this lens when it was first marketed and numerous branding variations, finding a Kiron 105mm really isn't the proverbial "needle in a haystack". In fact, aside from searching Kiron 105mm, there are a number of other cosmetic variations that may get you the same, or similar performance. You just need to know what you are looking for!

Model Variation


The Kiron 105mm was incarnated in a number of other iterations. I am still finding (and people are bringing to my attention) more lenses that are rebranded Kirons. Thus far, I am aware that the Kiron 105mm f/2.8 lens can be found in these physical iterations:

- Kiron 105mm f/2.8
- Lester A. Dine 105mm f/2.8 (Dental lens, often labeled with a dental focusing guide)
- Rikenon 105mm f/2.8
- Rolleinar 105mm f/2.8
- Vivitar 105mm f/2.5
- Vivitar 100mm f/2.8

While differing cosmetically, each of these lens variations contains an identical optical formula and is manufactured by Kino Precision, according to everything I have read thus far. The Kiron and Lester Dine models look the same with only extremely minor differences (noted below). The Vivitar 100mm and Rikenon 105mm models also look relatively the same. The Vivitar Series 1 105mm is unique in it's appearance. I have also just been informed of a possible Rolleinar incarnation, the Rolleinar 105mm f/2.8.

Kiron 105mm f/2.8

The Kiron 105mm f/2.8 lens in its sleek, black glory.


Lester A. Dine 105mm f/2.8

The Lester A. Dine version is typically identical looking to the Kiron, just marketed to dentists. It will have some extra markings on the distance scale and possibly a supplementary adhesive scale specifically designed for dental photography denoting intra-oral regions. The version pictured below on the left demonstrates the "field size" markings in contrast to the original Kiron version on the right.


Below is an image I found on the Pentax forums showing the adhesive dental scale:



Rikenon 105mm f/2.8

Below is the rarer Rikenon 105mm version of this lens*.


Rolleinar 105mm f/2.8


It has been brought to my attention (Thanks JC) that Rollei may well have rebranded a Kiron 105. The Rolleinar 105mm f/2.8 looks cosmetically and mechanically identical to the Kiron 105. I haven't yet come across any optical diagrams of the Kiron to compare with that of this Rollei but the current similarities lead me to believe the Rolleinar is Kiron's optically identical sibling. Here is a page on Rollei lenses with the 105mm midway down the page.

Vivitar Series 1 105mm f/2.5



Vivitar 100mm f/2.8

Similar to the Rikenon 105mm, the Vivitar 100mm iteration appears to have the same overall proportions, grip, and built-in hood, but with lens notation printed on front of the barrel, near the optics, rather than the outer edge.




*Images I have not made on this blog will be noted by the originator (in this case, osgood521 and Samy's Camera). I request permission to use them. I do however often put them on white, tweak WB, add some curves, retouch, and finish the overall layout.


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Performance


After collecting a few of these iterations, my curiosity led me to a comparison. First off, it should be noted, with any lens, there can be variation in image quality even between two identical models. So along with looking into differing image quality between these models, I also can be sure (if they truly are identical optical formulas) my assessment of the lens sharpness is accurate.

All the talk on the web tends to hyperbolize the greatness of this lens, namely that this is the greatest macro lens ever made. I would have to disagree with that statement, based on optical performance. Not that the Kiron 105mm isn't an excellent lens, but the best ever made, no. Below I have, as many others, used a $1 bill as a practical subject matter. The left crop is the eye in the tip of the pyramid while the right is a small detail near the upper right corner of the frame. I have only chosen to include the wide open performance crops. Stopped down, these lenses are excellent. Certainly as sharp as most anyone will need. Below is a key to where the crops came from:

I often interested in how a lens will do wide open (because why buy a fast lens, if it won't perform at that aperture?). At f/2.8 (the Vivitar 105mm version is marked f/2.5 but is actually f/2.8) this is the performance of each iteration:

Lester A. Dine 105mm f/2.8 Crop
Kiron 105mm f/2.8 Crop
Vivitar 105mm f/2.5 Crop

For the sake of argument, I actually do own a lens that is sharper wide open than these 105's. My favorite Vivitar Series 1 90mm f/2.5. Interestingly enough, these lenses tend to go for a considerable amount less than any of the 105mm version lenses, despite being sharper. My assumption is this is due to the fact that the 105 can go all the way to 1:1 reproduction rate without the need for extension tubes or macro extenders (such as the 90mm).

Vivitar Series 1 90mm f/2.5 Crop

Conclusion

The Kiron and Dine do appear a tad sharper than the Vivitar. This could be due to tester error though I was sure to check focus every shot. Also, it could be due in part to the aforementioned sample variation. The Vivitar just may be a softer sample. Either way, the tests show consistent CA wide open. The S1 90mm has always been stunningly sharp wide open. In this test, center appears a tad softer than the center of the Dine but through field use, the 90mm always proves extremely sharp wide open (as well as MTF charts etc). This is the largest reason I love this lens. It is an f/2.5 lens, and can be used optimally, at f/2.5! Also the CA does appear to be more controlled (though upon very close inspection, especially under more severe circumstances, the 90mm definitely does produce some CA). The 105's are unmistakeably excellent lenses. Focusing distance, easy 1:1 focusing, beautiful industrial design, etc. Although I did not have the opportunity to test the other variations, I would believe they will perform very similarly.

As can be seen in the upper left hand corner of the Key image, the dollar tended to curl a tad despite being taped down. This test was improvised and a bit hurried.

Links/Resources

For a larger scale test incorporating more than just the Kiron 105's check this macro comparison out.