Showing posts with label panagor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label panagor. Show all posts

Monday, October 5, 2009

Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 1:1 Macro Lens - Komine-made




Overview


Initially I believed this lens to be identical to the cosmetically similar 90mm lenses branded Elicar, Panagor, Rokunar, and probably others. I thought all were probably Komine manufactured. However a recent comment on the post displaying samples of images made with this lens suggests these other lenses may be different. I have no verification one way or the either as of now, though it would appear these lenses must at least be very closely related. All share an extremely long helicoid making the lens capable of 1:1 with no added extension. I have also seen these identical lenses, namely the Vivitar brands, labeled as f/2.5 and f/2.8. My forum readings suggest these variations have the same optics but were labeled a certain way for marketing purposes at the time of their introductions. I don't have any original literature, however, to truly resolve this issue. Below are a few images of the various other iterations I mentioned above:



This lens really cranks out there as can be seen in the image above. Check the serial number, if it begins with 28, it was manufactured by Komine, a well-known quality optical manufacturer. (for a list of Vivitar lens manufacturers click HERE). This lens is in no way related to the far superior Vivitar Series 1 90mm f/2.5 "Bokina".

Specifications


Focal length: 90mm
Filter thread: 62mm
Max. aperture:
2.8
Min. aperture: 22
Field of view: 26ยบ
Elements/Groups: 6/6
Dimensions: 3.4" x 2.7" (8.6 cm x 6.9 cm)
Weight: 17 oz. (482 g)

The above specs were listed for the Vivitar 90mm f/2.8 on B&H. I believe they are the same for the f/2.5 lens.

Handling




This particular sample I picked-up on craigslist. It is in immaculate condition. The seller was incredibly nice and I could tell really took care of his glass. It feels rather light in the hand compared to something like the Vivitar 105mm. It takes almost 3 full rotations for the lens to go from infinity to 1:1. The focus is tight and requires intent.

I discovered I had a hard time using this lens handheld, outdoors. I shoot most of my work handheld and rarely set up any kind of tripod but this lens proved to make that very difficult. I always use manual focus and do shoot all the way down-to and past 1:1 with hardly any issues but I often had blurred images with this lens. Also the working distance of this lens is rather limited. It could be the fact that it focuses down to 1:1 and at that point, you are practically on top of the subject. But it makes creature photography quite a bit more challenging. Not that I don't like a good challenge!

Performance



Predictably, this lens can deliver great images. Wide open it is a bit soft. When stopped down even to f/4 however, the lens is crisp. More on this soon (I am still searching for more data as well as conducting more tests)

As mentioned before, this lens has an extremely long focus throw. Which is great in one sense. More control of focus. Consequently, work with this lens is slow. I was wading in the creek the other day watching a little frog swim and float along in the water in front of me. I was attempting to get a shot of him mid-stride and it certainly became quite a production. This lens just takes time. My solution was simply to choose a focal distance, and move myself rather than bother with the focus ring. Here is the shot I chose:


1/1000 @ f/4, ISO 200 on Nikon D700



Crop - no sharpening added.


The front elements are very close to the front of the lens and without a built-in hood such as the Vivitar and Nikon 105's it is highly prone to flare. I would definitely recommend picking up a hood. I am currently looking for an older metal hood with the right shape to match the smooth brushed aesthetics of the lens exterior.

Wrap-up


All-in-all this is a very capable, smooth, well built macro lens. The focal length allows for a decent amount of working distance (while not as much as other macros of the same class). It can produce sharp images with a fair amount of contrast as long as the lens is stopped down a bit. The softness wide open also disappears quickly as stopped down. The downside of it all is, it is a beast to handle. It is not great for fast moving subjects, quick focus adjustments, and proves a challenge for 1:1 handheld (I had a lot more success with the Vivitar 105mm f/2.5). If you get a well-priced opportunity at one, go for it. If you are looking for a macro, I'd pass and look elsewhere, even within the Vivitar brand (such as the 105mm or even better, the Bokina!).

Links/Resources

Here is an extensive page of information on this 90mm f/2.5. Probably the most exhaustive analysis of the Vivitar/Panagor/Elicar/Soligor/etc 90mm lens I have seen. You may need to use Google Translate in order to read it since it is in German (unless of course you speak German!).

I cannot remember where this came from but below, I have a .pdf for the Vivitar 90mm. I am not the originator of this file.

Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 1:1 PDF

Friday, September 11, 2009

Auxiliary Fisheye Attachment Lenses


Fisheye lenses. Skaters love 'em, people hate 'em. I exaggerate, but I think most photographer's would agree that this unique lens has a time and place. Ever since I got into the world of photography I remember wanting to experiment with a fisheye lens. I liked that it provided a way of seeing I was unaccustomed to. Without the aid of such an optic, I would never be able to experience such a vast field of view, simultaneously. I also realized quickly, that such a unique capability came at a premium.
So if you're looking to buy a fisheye, but cannot bring yourself to drop the serious kind of money it would cost to get one manufactured by the top brands, or you just don't have the cash to begin with, this might be the perfect solution! The catch is, as this fisheye is an "attachment", you need a base lens. Below I will discuss what types of lenses work best (50mm-200mm. most 50mm's work very well and are among the cheapest lenses available). If you do not have any of these lenses, then indeed it may be easier/cheaper to purchase a true fisheye lens.
The solution to which I am refering is called an Auxiliary Fisheye Attachment. These lenses were made, from what I have found, back in the 70's. As in many other cases, only a few variations were manufactured, yet a barrage of names appeared around the ring near the top of the lens. Spiratone, Soligor, Accura, Makinon, Kenko, Panagor, Kalcor, Portertown, and Samigon are all I have come across thus far, but I am sure there are more. Peter Ganzel's site has an entire page dedicated to these units. Below, I have compiled a few examples from his site as well as a couple I took.
HOW IT ATTACHES
I have owned 3 versions of these units. Each was different! To the right, I have created a visual to demonstrate the basic components. They are as follows (from top to bottom):
1. Lens cap
2. Lens unit
3. Adapter Ring
4. Step Ring
5. Base Lens

The lower part of the lens unit (which has a large silver screw) also detaches but I am unsure exactly why this is. Ideally, the lens attaches to the front of a base lens via the filter thread. Depending perhaps on who made it and when, the adapter rings size is varied. Of the samples I have had, the adapter rings could be swapped to mount on any brand aux fisheye so it would seem the very small thread which connects the adapter to the lens unit might be universal among these fisheyes, but I cannot say for sure. In any case, the adapter rings vary in size on the filter side for sure. I have had a 52mm, 55mm, as well as a Series VII. Consequently, the next part of the assembly is a step ring. The size is completely dependent on your specific adapter ring size and the lens on which you wish to mount the fisheye. And the lens makes all the difference in the world.
So let's talk about choosing a lens. Each fisheye I have seen has a ring denoting various focal lengths. According the the directions for use, the user is to set this ring to the appropriate focal length lens. The focal lengths listed are typically between 45-200mm. Different focal length lenses will yield very different results. For the samples at the end of this post, I used a Nikon D200 with a 1.5x crop factor senor and a Nikon 50mm f1.8 Series E lens as my base unit. However, when I put the same lens assembly on my D700, because of the full frame sensor, I can see the whole circular image and there is much more negative space. Consequently, I tried the attachment on a Nikon 105mm f4 Micro lens. This yielded something much closer to a full frame fisheye, in which almost the entirety of the sensor was being used. So it really comes down to experimentation! Here are some things to consider:
- Faster is better. These attachments will take the lens down a couple stops. Starting with an f/5.6 is not only going t
o make composition and hand held shots tough, it will most likely yield poor results. Preferably something f2.8 or faster.

- Prominent front elements. It seems the nearer the optics of the base lens are to the attachment, the better. Some lenses, such as the Nikon AF 50mm have a recessed front element and in my experience, will
actually hinder the functionality of the fisheye.

- Heavy! These attachments are from the 70's. They are well-built with all metal constructions. Be sure to choose a lens with a durable front ring that can support the weight. Plastic lenses will struggle with these. I give the plastic Nikon 35-70mm f3.3-whatever a go. The rig sounded awful.

HOW IT WORKS

Simple, they used to have directions posted on the inside of the lens cap (image courtesy of Peter Ganzel)!





Now, in all honesty, these will not yield the edge-to-edge sharp images of a Nikkor lens. They won't necessarily prove convenient either. What they WILL do is give a true fisheye image. And with some ingenuity, prove a very versatile tool. These can be used on a number of cameras including medium format!

Here a just a few samples of some things I have done with these lenses. All were shot with the Nikon 50mm as the base lens on a Nikon D200. I also engineered a ringflash to accompany the fisheye for the portraits.

KEEP IT GOIN' KEEP IT GOIN' KEEP IT GOIN' FULL STEAM...

This guy took one of these fisheyes bungee jumping as an inexpensive alternative to a more costly lens. I'm thinkin however, if something went wrong the broken lens would be the least of his problems...

As previously stated, Peter Ganzel has a webpage with more examples of these fisheye converters.


I found a thread on photo.net in which members discussed these fisheye things a bit.

Fantastic! Scan of original user manual for the Spiratone Auxiliary Fisheye: http://www.apecity.com/manuals/pdf/spiratone_fisheye_auxiliary_lens.pdf

This page has more information and some neat original advertisements: http://www.thecuckoofarm.com/cuckoo/photo/lens/lensacc/spirfisheye/spirfisheye.php