Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Tamron SP-200 2x Teleconverter Sample Images

Cardinal (cropped)
Tamron 300/2.8 with Tamron SP-200 2x TC @ f/16

Over the Easter holiday, I spent the afternoon over at my aunt and uncle -in-law's home. The weather was simply amazing and they just happen to have an array of bird feeders in the back yard. So I brought over my D600, the Tamron 300mm f/2.8 107B and the SP-200 2x teleconverter. I set up about 50 feet from the bird feeders, beneath the deck umbrella, and set the tripod in such a way so as to allow me to fully lounge, whilst still being able to preview my images through the viewfinder. Throw in a tall sweating glass of iced sweet tea, and we just might have my absolute favorite moment of the spring so far...

I've not done a whole lot of birding, so forgive my ignorance in the matter. These images are more to further demonstrate the quality one can achieve using the Tamron SP-200 and one of Tamron's oldest 300/2.8 lenses, even today. I have done some minor color and exposure adjustments but no sharpening has been added.


Cowbird (cropped)
Tamron 300/2.8 with Tamron SP-200 2x TC @ f/11

Gold Finches
Tamron 300/2.8 with Tamron SP-200 2x TC @ f/16

Above: I realize the composition of this image is strange. It was actually done to demonstrate the off-axis sharpness that can be achieved with the SP-200. Have a close look at both the Finches and the details in the anti-squirrel plate for the bird feeder, located in the bottom left side of the image.

Woodpecker (slight crop)
Tamron 300/2.8 with Tamron SP-200 2x TC @ f/11

Woodpecker (cropped)
Tamron 300/2.8 with Tamron SP-200 2x TC @ f/11

Saturday, April 12, 2014

The Tamron SP-200 (200f) Teleconverter vs. Tamron 01F: Worth the Premium?


Well that's just a loaded question, isn't it? I mean, who am I to determine if the performance of Tamron's rare SP-200 2x teleconverter, is worth whatever premium someone is trying to get for it on eBay, over just asking someone on the street to give you the 01f (because I am pretty sure everyone has one of these). Obviously I speak in jest. But truly, for those of us interested in the Tamron Adaptall line,  and especially those of us focused on the 300/2.8 lenses of the series, we've undoubtedly seen and heard myths of the elusive Tamron SP-200, or otherwise known as the 200f, 2x teleconverter. There is no doubt, in my opinion, that the SP-200 is a better TC. But, often going for roughly 10x the price of the 01f, we have to wonder, "How much better can the SP-200 be? Does it merit such a price hike?"

The short answer to this is, 'No'. The long answer is, inevitably, 'Yes'.

I have owned most the more impressive fast primes and telephotos in the Tamron SP Adaptall series including the 180/2.5, 300/2.8, 400/4, and even the 200-500/5.6. And with each of them (save for the 200-500), it seemed I always received the Tamron 01f 2x Teleconverter, like it was a lens cap. To say these are common is an understatement. Most unfortunate for the sake of this comparison, I said "ownED". While I have loved running this test using several of these lenses, my financial situation dictates otherwise. As with many lenses and pieces of photo gear I have owned in the past, they were all a part of a rotating kit really. Fortunately, stability in my job in recent years and more wisdom into my own behaviors, (that is, I tend to go buy these lenses again because I miss them) has led me to a new outlook, in which I simply wait to own the next piece of gear, rather than hock stuff for the immediate pay off. Unfortunately, that came too late for this comparison and so, to date, the only of those large SP lenses I still own (and can never let go) was the Tamron Adaptall 300mm f/2.8 107B.


The 107B is an awesome lens for a variety of reason. Heck,  how I acquired it, to me, is reason enough! At the same time, it has it's short comings. I have learned more and more why everyone appreciates the 60B's internal focus (IF). I certainly loved it on the 400/4 65B. The 107B does not have IF (it actually physically changes length as you focus), so using the 107B in practice can be a bit more challenging, as I have to often work against the weight of the camera (since the lens is what is mounted to the tripod). For our purposes, this was merely an inconvenience. Below is a couple images of a brick wall with no teleconverter, at select apertures, and at full resolution so you can get a feel for what comes straight out of the 107B:


Tamron 300mm f/2.8 107B @ f/2.8


Tamron 300mm f/2.8 107B @ f/5.6

Methods

First, let me just reiterate the relative casualness of my findings. I try to be thorough, but especially after reading a lens review on DxO today, well, suffice it say, I feel like a middle school science project trying for the Nobel prize. On the other hand, I think we can all appreciate that,  the labs of DxO and the like is very different from the everyman(woman) picking up a lens and going out to have some fun. OK so I did shoot "the brick wall...", so perhaps not quite so natural.

That being said, for this comparison, I essentially set up my Nikon D600 (which has just returned from Nikon Repair Services having had the free shutter replacement) on a tripod, about 30-40ft from a brick wall. I set the camera to mirror-up shutter (first shutter click flips the camera's mirror up, then a second click opens the shutter, allowing the user to pause between the two to prevent any vibration from the mirror flip to affect the exposure). I used a remote shutter, so that I was not touching the camera, again, in effort to prevent vibration. Using ISO, I adjusted to maintain a shutter speed above 1/600th of a second (using the rule of thumb to account for image vibration during the exposure with long telephoto lenses), usually closer to 1/1000th to be safe. I focused using the live view monitor and a screen loupe. The weather was awesome by the way. It was about 75 degrees F and a very slight, soft breeze.

The crops are 100% with only some slight exposure compensation in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) to even things out for this comparison.

Let's get to the side-by-side, shall we?

Comparison



Above is the entire image, with each of the 5 selected crops highlighted. I tried to select areas with a noticeable detail that made for a good point of comparison, while also getting a good spread across the whole frame.  So for each image at a given aperture, there are 5 crops. The first image you see is the Tamron 01f. Recall that beginning with an f/2.8 lens, and adding a 2x TC, typically knocks us down 2 stops so we begin at an effective aperture of f/5.6. 

Jump to: f/5.6  f/8  f/11  f/16  f/22  f/32

f/5.6
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.












f/8
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.










f/11
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.










f/16
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.










f/22
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.










f/32
Hover to see the results of the Tamron SP-200.










Sharpness

My understanding from performing this comparison is that the SP-200 (200f) definitely produces sharper images across the frame, including, as stated, off-axis. By f/11, you can see the 01f and SP-200 are nearly identical, though crop 4, out of the corner, shows us that off-axis performance of the SP-200 still bests the 01f quite well. 

Surprisingly, there are some areas, such as crop 5 at f/5.6, where the 01f appears sharper than the SP-200. This could simply be the case, or it could also be a result of a variety of factors as, again, this test borders on scientific/methodical but I am no scientist. I did not go as far as to ensure I was perfectly square and perpendicular to my subject (such that the image plane lined up precisely with the wall). I eyeballed it. Also, I was shooting a likely, imperfect wall. There's no guarantee the wall runs that perfectly straight, so it's possible it is more convex or concave along the surface. Etc. The possibilities go on, when we aren't in a perfectly controlled lab. But as is always the case with what I do, when are we all shooting in a perfect lab? How do these results look to you, given what you know about how you shoot? Are both TC's sharp enough? Or do you need that extra snap in your images, especially around the edges? Are you willing to pay ten-fold for it?

Chromatic Aberration

Sharpness isn't the only factor in evaluating an optic obviously. But with these TC's, it certainly seems to be the most prominent, defining difference. Chromatic aberration appears to me to be well controlled, but then, my understanding with the Nikod D600 is that there is automatic CA suppression (with no ability to turn it off) so I don't know that I can truly say anything about the optics with regards to this. Suffice it to say, with my Nikon D600, CA with these optics appear nearly identical with this subject in exhibiting little-to-no CA (some extremely minimal lateral CA).

Other Aberrations (Fall-off, Distortion, etc.)

Regarding light fall-off, distortion, and so on, there was no noticeable difference to me, between the two TCs. Both TCs exhibit some light fall-off in the early apertures (wide open) but the problem reduces noticeably as they are stopped down. 

There is a highlight in crop 3, noticeable most at f/5.6 and f/8, that looks indicative of Coma. The SP-200 appears to control this much better than the 01f. But this isn't this brick wall isn't the best subject matter to analyze that.

Also, you will notice the images jump a bit between the 01f and the SP-200. There is possibly some relation here to different distortion between the two optics, but also consider, if you have ever used adaptall, because of the nature of the various moving parts in the mounts, the camera can actually rotate a slight degree (some play) whilst still being properly mounted. So the images between the two teleconverters were actually off from one another (one was tilted a bit) and I had to align them in post. I did my best, but some of the shift is likely a result of that as well as possible differences in distortion patterns.

The difference in color rendering is also potentially due to this being done at 5-6pm in the midwest amidst a setting sun. The light was warmer and occasionally passed behind clouds. I tried to wait and make images when the light was most consistent and direct, but one cannot keep the sun from setting!

They truly do perform quite similarly on most fronts, based on this test, except for in sharpness.

Conclusion

The Tamron SP-200 is sharper overall, than the Tamron 01f. For me, the improvement in sharpness is certainly nice. But back to the original question: Is the rare Tamron SP-200 (200f) Teleconverter as good as they say, and worth the search and a 10x premium price than that of the readily available 01f? Since saying both 'Yes' and 'No', makes me right either way, let me explain.

I say 'No' for the following reasons: For this kind of money (I paid $300 around the time of this post for mine), one can get a modern TC with much better performance, depending on the lens used in conjunction. But let's face it, if I am doing a professional job, I am using more modern lenses. Not my Tamron Adaptall stuff. So no, the effort to find an available copy of the Tamron SP-200 and then pay whatever that seller is asking (assuming they are aware of the rarity of their item) just isn't worth the increased performance over Tamron's 01f.

I say 'Yes' because, it is true, the SP-200 does indeed demonstrate better off-axis sharpness. And if I am going to make images using a 2x TC with my adaptall lenses, I might as well be making them with the best TC available. Moreover, it is very worth it for me, to own a unique, hard-to-find piece of Adaptall history! I could see collectors and enthusiasts sharing this opinion especially if he or she owns the 60B, 107B, or 360B. I have even heard people using it on the 63B (180/2.5). It was every penny worth it, to me, to have answers to this question about the optical performance difference between the two teleconverters! (Lucky day for that seller!) Rare, desirable items, will always fetch higher prices. It is the way of things.

And that is how I can say it is definitely not worth the price hike, and agree, yes, it is worth the price hike. Though I would be singing a very different tune if I had, instead of paying the eBay premium, been the guy to find this in someone's old box of Dad's photo stuff at a garage sale and walked off with it for $30....this post would potentially read very differently.

More Information

Sample images of more than a brick wall, using the SP-200.


Saturday, January 25, 2014

Tamron Adaptall SP-200 (200f) 2x Teleconverter - Fresh from the Post!


UPDATE (04/12/14): After a long cold winter, some spring air finally arrived and I got out and did some testing. See http://makingnottaking.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-tamron-sp-200-200f-teleconverter-vs.html for some results!



Fresh from the hands of the delivery man, the fabled Tamron Adaptall SP-200 (or perhaps more commonly known as the 200F) 2x Teleconverter has arrived. I have had my sights on this teleconverter for a long time; since purchasing my first 300mm Tamron lens.

The internet is rife with forum posts and discussion about this TC, but I have yet to see some real results. The Adaptall-2.org page on the SP-200/200F states that the teleconverter is capable of, "...superb off-axis performance." The article goes on to approximate that, depending on which lens the teleconverter is being coupled with, the 200F produces up to 35-50% better off-axis performance (sharper corners) than its more common sibling, the 01F teleconverter. While I hope this is true, I can't help but wonder if there is more to it. The rarity of this optic, and certainly the price tags it seems to fetch these days, has me believing (perhaps just hoping) that there is at least the 35-50% corner sharpness improvement and then some. It never seems to fail, that owners of this teleconverter hail its performance, but again, I've seen no real side-by-side comparisons with the 01F. Could the hubbub be largely due to the collectors? Desiring a marginally better, but more importantly, ultra-rare member of the Adaptall-SP family?

Well, after seeing only a couple of these 200F teleconverters sell (on eBay) in the past year, all of which sold for over $250, one went for over $400 I believe, my curiosity got the best of me! I pulled the trigger on a nice looking copy and ponied up more money than I probably should have. But it's in the name of science! Well that's what I told my wife...

Speaking of, as you may notice, this is my first post in some time here on the blog. I was recently married, bought a home, and have been quite busy with work. Those things, combined with some new hobbies (bikes, wood-working, cooking...), have had me very busy. But as with any true passion, I've not stopped snapping the shutter and it was only a matter of time before that LBA came back (with a vengeance!).

So, very soon, I am going to find out for myself (and share) my findings between this 200F and the 01F - lots of images guaranteed. It's time to see if this Tamron Adaptall SP-200 / 200F is truly worth all of the hype. Unfortunately, I have since sold my Tamron 400/4, Tamron 200-500/5.6, and Tamron 180/2.5 lenses. Part of trying to do this sort of thing without a whole lot of cash to spare. Cycle in, cycle out. I will definitely have to pick up the 400/4 and 180/2.5 again someday. For this test, I will likely be using my 300/2.8 107B. Now the weather just needs to warm up a hair. -15 degrees F, windchill, is unacceptable!

Sunday, August 26, 2012

First Generation Campagnolo Vento Clincher Rims (20 Spoke)


In my traipsing around the web, searching for information about Columbus TSX, I noticed a lot of the 8-speed 1990's bikes, which were built with TSX, sported a distinct wheelset. The deep-V campagnolo Ventos and Shamals. While I am typically not into restoring things historically, I am not one to shy away from good design. I simply love how these wheels look. 


Pictured, are what I believe to be the first generation Ventos which had 20-spokes. Later versions, annotated with HPW-16 and HPW-12s, had 16 and 12 spokes respectively. Aesthetically, I prefer the decals of these earlier versions. Simple, black. Later iterations appear with purple/magenta graphics and sometimes with blue lettering. Oi.


I will have more review after some more riding! I think it is safe to say, there are plenty more, technologically advanced options in terms of wheels, but as can be seen from the rest of this build, an advanced, light build, is simply not the goal here. The ride is sweet though!!

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Hand Polishing Aluminum Bicycle Parts to Mirror Finish


Go from the part above, to the part pictured below it, in about 30 minutes, no power tools necessary. I looked all over the web for more information about hand polishing aluminum parts, in this case, for a bicycle. I actually had a surprisingly hard time trying to find a good step by step. It probably has something to do with this instant gratification society. I want to know (in this order), What Will The End Result Look Like?, What Will I Need?, How Long Will This Take?, and then if I decide it's worth it, The Steps....with LOTS OF PICTURES! So for those with this impatient affliction, see above image. Worth it? Read on.
What You Will Need



- Varying Grits of Sandpaper (Depending on the condition of your original part, how much initial sanding is required.) I started with 400, 600, 2000, and 3000. 
- Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish.
- Terry Cloth or Terry Application Pads
- Some paper towels and some water. I used a small bucket to sand over (wet sanding so there will be drips).

You can get all of these items at most automotive places like Pep Boys, or Autozone. I don't think the home improvement stores really carry sandpaper over 1000 grit or so (but they might?).

How Long Will This Take?

This is completely dependent on the size of the part you intend on polishing. A bicycle seat post took me about 30 minutes. You do not need any power tools, just the items listed above.

The Steps


So this all started when I picked up a Campagnolo seat post for a great price relative to what they typically sell for. The part was, however, in pretty rough shape. If only it could be revived...

*For those saying to themselves, "That before picture looks terrible, like one of those get in shape quick info-mercials, of course the after looks so much better..." In my defense, I forgot to take a before, and had already begun sanding the post. SO, I used the eBay seller's picture. This is why they look very different.

The condition of your part will determine the grit of sandpaper at which you should begin. Obviously you need to assess whether the part can afford to lose some material (through sanding) relative to the kinds of issues affecting it's finish. Deep scratches would require you to sand the whole part to the depth of the scratch to make it disappear entirely. Since many tolerances on bike parts are fractions of a millimeter, you likely can't afford to sand out really deep scratches but scratches add character right?


STEP 1. 

I started with 400 grit. You will be wet sanding (soaking the sandpaper in some water and sanding with the paper wet). I did this over a small bucket. You'll need to put some elbow grease into it. You want to sand as many of the scratches out of the metal as you can whilst being cognizant not too take too much material off. Beginning with 400 grit, you shouldn't worry, but starting with a more coarse, dry sandpaper, you can really get into the material quickly.


The sandpaper will leave a grey residue. You can use this to your advantage to see the scratches you want to sand through. See in the image above, the seat post was improperly, or rather violently removed from the bike leaving scathing lacerations in the lower part. These were too deep to sand through in my opinion.

STEP 2.  Once happy with the results of the first sanding, step to a finer grade sandpaper and thoroughly sand the part again. Some sites recommend sanding in a single direction and then sanding in the opposite direction with the next grade of sandpaper. I did some of this, but I didn't find it to be imperative to the success of the polishing. Just be sure to sand through what you had done with the previous grade of sandpaper.


Using 600 grit.

I stepped from 400, to 600, to 2000 (I skipped 1000 because I ran out and forgot to pick some up), and then finally, 3000 grit. 

STEP 3. At this point, the part should take on a smooth, semi-gloss sheen. Now you're ready to apply the Mother's. This stuff is magic!

Above you can see how my part looked as I progressed through the sandings. In the third image, the top part of the post is sanded to 3000 grit. The bottom has the mothers applied. Amazing! As per the directions, I just dabbed a very little bit on the Terry pad, and began scrubbing intently, until the material literally dried up and began to appear glossy and brilliant!

The seat post now has a beautiful mirror shine. As you can see, I did not sand down far enough to take the deepest scratches in the post out, because that might have caused issues with the seat post fitting securely in the seat tube of the bike.


Finished!


And mounted on the bike. Much nicer than before!

UPDATE



I picked up two stems at the LBS and applied the above polishing technique to just one of them. Initially, they both appeared identical, save for their size. Because these looked rougher than the seat post did, I started with 220 grit sandpaper. A more thorough sanding job would have yielded a nicer result but I was in the middle of conversing with the neighbor and an early afternoon beer!



Installed on the ol Bianchi (The previous stem was a bit too long). P.S., this bike still rides like a dream!


Resources


Another good visual tutorial...in Russian. Thanks Google Translate!! http://kickstarter.org/index.php?ind=reviews&op=entry_view&iden=27